2016年7月11日 星期一

實用主義下所設計的難民服裝

Utilitarian Garments Designed To Help Refugees

 
  時裝科系的學生精選出一系列把難民的需求考慮進來的外衣
   
  The Syrian civil war has resulted in millions of displaced people throughout the Middle East and Europe, many of whom leave with nothing more than the clothes on their backs. Fashion Design grad from Parsons School of Design Angela Luna, saw her senior thesis as an opportunity to explore solution-based design and developed ‘Crossing the Boundary’, a collection of unisex, one-size outerwear designed to provide refugees with shelter and protection from the elements.
  敘利亞內戰已經導致數百萬人在中東和歐洲一帶流離失所,這當中有許多人除了身上的衣物以外,可以說是一無所有。在Parson設計學校時裝設計科系畢業的Angela Luna,將她的畢業論文當作是一個「解決問題為導向」和「提供跨境發展」的探索之旅。一系列中性的、單一尺碼的外衣,用來提供給難民庇護、避免大自然的侵襲。
   
  “As I was researching about what was going on in Syria about two years ago, I caught myself feeling really attached,” said Luna in a phone interview. “I wanted to create something that could help. I had no idea what it was going to be or how it would turn out, but I thought ‘this is a thesis, I have a whole year to figure it out’ and just went from there.”
  「當我兩年前在研究敘利亞所發生的事情時,它深深地把我吸引住。」Luna在電話訪問裡面說道。「我想要開發一些物品來提供幫助。那時我還不知道會是什麼東西,但我那時想:這是一篇論文,我有一整年的時間來慢慢想,就這樣的開始了。」
   
  The young designer focused on certain key issues refugees face on a daily basis that could be addressed through design, especially when making long overseas journeys. The collection includes seven garments, each one focusing on a specific problem, such as lack of shelter, drowning and exposure to extreme elements.
  就這樣年輕的設計師把焦點集中在難民在日常生活中所面臨到而可以透過設計來改善的主要問題,特別是那些需要長途跨境跋涉的人。這一系列的設計總共包含了七件服飾,每一件都特別針對一項特定的問題來解決,例如:缺乏庇護、沈溺、或暴露在極端自然條件下。
   
  One of the pieces is a reflective inflatable life jacket that can be worn during and after a boat journey. There are also two jackets that transform into tents that can fit up to six people, and a jacket that transforms into a sleeping bag or a blanket. The designer also created a reflective jacket with a removable baby harness, a reversible jacket that’s reflective on one side and camouflage on the other, and a backpack that can double as cape to provide warmth.
  其中的一件反光可充氣式救生外套,它可以在在乘坐救生艇及之後的時間穿著。還有兩款外套可以變身成為供六人安置的帳篷,一款外套可以變形成為睡袋或被單。設計者還設計了一款反光外套附帶了一個嬰兒背帶,還有一件反光外套,反過來穿時具有偽裝效果。還有一件背包,可以展開來成為兩倍大的面積的保暖披風。
   
 
  Inflatable Jacket 可充氣式外套
   
  Small tent jacket 小帳篷型外套
   
 
  Large tent jacket 大帳篷型外套
   
 
  Sleeping bag jacket 睡袋型外套
   
 
  baby-carrying jacket 背嬰型外套
   
 
  Reflective reversible jacket 反光可雙面穿外套
   
  Regarding the inspiration behind this project, which earned her the Parsons Womenswear Designer the Year award, Luna says it was difficult because there aren’t too many designers focused on solution-based design. She found her biggest source of inspiration in Lucy Jones, a Parsons alum who created a collection for wheelchair users.
  由於這項專案背後隱含的啟發想法,是她獲得了Parson設計學校的女性服飾設計的年度獎,Luna說這有點困難因為把焦點集中在解決導向的設計者並不多。她發覺給她最的靈感,是來自於曾設計了一系列輪椅的Parson學校的校友,Lucy Jones。
   
  These prototypes are just the beginning. While she’s still working on the business aspect of the collection, Luna plans to implement a one-for-one model, similar to brands like Toms and Warby Parker.
  這些原型設計只是個開始,Luna同時也在從事商業化的工作,她打算實行「一對一」服務計劃,類似Tom and Warby Parker。
   
 
“The idea is to have the collection exactly as the one you see now, with the same attention to fabric and detail, and sell that to the general market. The donated versions would have the same functions, but without anything that just serves an aesthetic purpose.”
「這個想法是要提出於上述相同的設計,同樣注重材質和細節,然後銷售到一般的市場中。而捐贈版的設計會有相同的功能,但沒有純美觀考量的設計。」
 

   
  While fashion is generally seen as a superficial industry that promotes waste, excess and repetition, collections designed with such a clear purpose and young creatives using fashion as a form activism, will hopefully generate a shift in the way we consume and think about clothes in the future.
  時裝設計通常被視為是一種為了提升外觀而會造成浪費、消耗過量和大量重複的行業,而這項設計卻有著鮮明的目的和新穎的創意,並且把時尚設計融合成行動主義的一種形式,也可能為我們未來所認知和消費的衣服,帶來某種方式的轉變。
   
 
“This collection is trying to start a conversation about global issues and human rights. This isn’t the solution, this is just a band-aid,” says Luna. “Maybe one of the people who makes a purchase will take action in the refugee crisis in some other way, maybe it will get politicians to take more action. In no way does it end with this collection.”
「這項設計企圖引起全球議題和人權之間的對話,它僅只是一種補救而非解決方案」Luna說,「或許人群中某一個人因為購買了之後,而以其他的方式對難民危機採取行動,也許讓政治人物採取更多的行動,而不能就讓這一切到這項設計就停止了。

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